Styles of Ascent
Climbing,or at least sport climbing, is a game: there are certain rules to it.
There was a time when people climbed mountains and cliffs without much thought about how
they actually do it. It was alright to use any kind of hooks, sticks and whatever could
help make a positive move, including a partner's shoulders. This was the golden era of
climbing. Back then, there was no such thing as a climbing route rating system. The
mountains looked beautifully pure to most, but for those who would dare to climb them they
were dangerous, monstrous giants that would always pose a challenge to man. Because of this,
any tools could be utilized in order to climb to the top. Style did not matter. Not yet,
anyways.
During the second half of the 20th century, climbers invented tones of new gear,strong and light ropes.
Because of the ever growing amount of climbing equipment, most of the mountains have been
climbed. Many hard routes that were once considered to be almost impossible to climb became
one-day or even several hour adventures for today's climbers. Now that the times have
changed, it is not enough to merely climb a route. One has to explain exactly how it was
done. In addition to all of the new equipment, climbers had to come up with yet another creation: the
special language to describe all of the details of an ascent.
The Styles of Ascent
On-sight - A no falls, one push ascent, with no prior knowledge of the route. The ultimate ascent that we all aspire to.
Flash - A no falls, one push ascent of a route with some prior knowledge of the moves without actually having been on the route before. The amount of prior knowledge may vary from having seen someone on the route once to having all of the moves (beta) described to you.
Redpoint – If you have been on the route before, practiced the moves (worked the route) either on a top rope or on lead, then make a no falls, one push ascent of the route, placing and/or clipping gear as you go, this is known as a redpoint ascent. A pinkpoint is similar to a redpoint, but the gear or quickdraws are already in place.
Top roping – Climbing the route from the bottom to the top without falling, with the protection of the rope from above.
Working a route – involves hanging on a rope or protection and working out and practicing the moves before a redpoint or top rope ascent.
Project – a route that has not been climbed. A red tag on the first bolt indicates that the climbing is being actively worked on. Please respect the time and money that goes into putting up routes by not climbing red tagged routes. However, “red tagging” multiple projects is generally frowned upon, as are red tags that have been bleached white in the sun.
